Nine hundred objects on long loan from Beijing's Forbidden City, in a building shaped like an inverted ritual vessel.

Opened in July 2022, timed to the twenty-fifth anniversary of the handover, and built around a long-term loan arrangement with the Palace Museum in Beijing — the institution that holds the imperial collections of the Forbidden City.

Around 900 objects came in the opening loan, many of them never previously shown outside Beijing, with rotating loans since. The Beijing collection runs to over 1.8 million items, so what comes here is a curated fraction.

The building

Rocco Yim, in gold-anodised aluminium, tapering upwards — a form the architect describes as referencing an ancient ritual vessel inverted, and which also allows three stacked atria arranged on a vertical axis rather than the Forbidden City’s horizontal one.

The colour is deliberate: imperial yellow, restated in metal.

The upper atrium has a full-height window onto Victoria Harbour, which is the building’s best moment.

The collection

Nine galleries across three floors.

Imperial life in the Forbidden City — furnishings, clothing, court objects.

Ceramics, from the imperial kilns at Jingdezhen. Jade and bronzes, some of them very early. Painting and calligraphy, rotated frequently because of light sensitivity — which means what you see depends on when you come.

Horses in Chinese art, and rotating special exhibitions, some drawing on European collections through partnerships with the Louvre and others.

The interpretation is bilingual, thorough and unusually good at explaining court ritual and function rather than just attribution.

The question people ask

The museum’s creation was politically contentious. It was announced in 2016 without public consultation, on land in the West Kowloon Cultural District that had been designated for other cultural uses, and the process was criticised at the time by legislators and by parts of the arts sector.

It is funded by the Hong Kong Jockey Club Charities Trust. The building and the loans are, on their own terms, genuinely impressive.

Practicalities

Ticketed. Special exhibitions cost extra; combined tickets with M+ exist.

Allow three hours. Closed Tuesdays.

Photography is permitted in most galleries and not in some loan exhibitions.

Kowloon station exit E, or a walk west along the promenade from Tsim Sha Tsui, which takes about twenty-five minutes and is pleasant at dusk.

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